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Beautiful Tuscany – more than wine

Not long ago I was in Tuscany together with a couple of other selected journalists from Sweden, Norway and Denmark. And for me, who works with wine, this was a particularly interesting trip - because Tuscany obviously has more to offer than good wine.

Not long ago I was in Tuscany together with a couple of other selected journalists from Sweden, Norway and Denmark. The press trip was organized by Danitacom and local tourism authorities in Tuscany. And for me, who works with wine, this was a particularly interesting trip – because Tuscany obviously has more to offer than good wine.

Text and photo by Trude Helén Hole

Part of what we were introduced to in wonderful and romantic Tuscany, I will convey here. But I generally recommend the following tips; If you are going on a trip and want to experience more than just good wine and food, shopping and beaches, then do some work in advance.

Read history and a bit about the areas you are going to, and you will also get the hidden treasures, and not least; you develop as a person, gain a little more knowledge and become a little wiser. And that’s nice, isn’t it?

First stop was the port town of Castiglione della Pescaia

The aim of the trip was to visit the Grosseto and Livorno areas in Tuscany, and our hosts were the Chamber of Commerce of Maremma and Tirreno. For that reason, we got a varied and interesting program for the days, and here are some of the highlights.

Castiglione della Pescaia

The port town of Castiglione della Pescaia is located in the southwestern part of Tuscany, on the west coast of Italy, about 200 kilometers northwest of Rome. Castiglione della Pescaia is an ancient coastal town built around a medieval fortress from the 15th century. If you are in the city, it is mandatory to take a stroll within the old city walls and up towards the fortress itself – because here, believe it or not, you will feel a stoic calm.

And the sense of calm was a strange experience for me, because tourism, which is important to many small communities, can also be destructive. Small places grow, change and lose their genuine expression and charm. But this is not the case with Castiglione della Pescaia. What I felt was a genuine peace deep into my soul, and the feeling of something real.

Yes, almost like a feeling of falling in love – and I liked it!

Castiglione della Pescaia is known for its traditional fishing, and more

And I promise – a hike in the the port town of Castiglione della Pescaia is something you won’t regret for a second. You can see it in the pictures above. You will experience the historic buzz and genuine charm around every stone! When you get to the top you can enjoy the lovely view over the sparkling sea towards the islands of Elba and Giglio. It’s deliciously liberating!

Castiglione della Pescaia is originally known for its traditional fishing, but today it is a popular destination better known for its magnificent views around the bays, its many vineyards and orchards, and its beautiful sandy beaches. Here you can enjoy the sun and bathing life, as well as fishing boats and yachts, while the historic city center offers a slightly more sophisticated addition.

You might want to rent a kiteboard on the beach in Fiumara, where you will find good conditions for kitesurfing. In the sculpture garden Strada del Contemporaneo you can see modern works of art if you prefer a modern touch on your vacation. And northeast of the old town you will find Le Mortelle, which has a cellar full of Tuscan wine. And of course they are not the only ones – if you want wine tasting, you can get this in several places.

Just ask – don´t forget, you are in Tuscany!

Casa Ximenes, once a lock facility, is now an interactive museum about the area and well worth a visit.

Riserva Naturale Diaccia Botrona – one of the world’s most important nature reserves

Not far from Castiglione della Pescaia you will find the Riserva Naturale Diaccia Botrona, which is one of the world’s most important wetland areas. Rare insects and butterflies live here, and in addition you will find a great diversity of animal and bird life well hidden in a multitude of rare bog plants.

You will also find Casa Ximenes, also called Casa Rossa – the red house, which is one of Maremma’s most photographed buildings in Tuscany. The unique building is today a museum and a popular destination among locals and people on holiday along the Maremma’s silver coast, but its history also includes a dramatic story.

In the old days, the Riserva Naturale Diaccia Botrona area was a breeding ground for malaria mosquitoes, right up until the 19th century when La Maremma was drained. It is said that the young men who worked and were seconded to build and operate Casa Ximenes had an extremely short life span and barely reached the age of 25. But don’t be alarmed, today the area is free of malaria.

Massa Marittima, a mysterious medieval town

The next stop was Massa Marittima which lies almost 400 meters above sea level and 18 kilometers from the coast on the western side of the Colline Metallifere hills. In other words, Massi Marittima is an inland-city a little further northeast of the port town of Castiglione della Pescaia, and in this town you will find other pleasures.

In Massi Marittima, like the old part of Castiglione della Pescaia, you stroll along narrow alleys on cobbled streets between historic medieval houses. It is actually pure idyll, and I also got the same feeling of something real here. Now we were lucky enough to be able to visit these wonderful cities slightly out of season, which is a privilege in itself. Because when tourists in all kinds of colors color the streets and outdoor restaurants, the aforementioned will probably result in a completely different experience, which brings me to tip number 2; go outside the tourist season.

VisitTuscany

Cattedrale di San Cerbones, a natural gathering point

A natural gathering place is the open space in front of the Cattedrale di San Cerbones. This is an impressive building that has been set up in several stages. The central portal is flanked by two lion columns from the early 13th century, erected in honor of the legend of Saint Cerbonius. The three central columns of the tympanum rest on three figures: a bearded man, a griffin and a horse. The lower part of the bell tower is also from the 13th century, while the upper part of the building is from the 19th century when the population began to increase again.

The cathedral is both powerful and impressive. But I also recommend a visit to the Senese Fortress and Town Walls and the archaeological museum located right next to the cathedral. And that leads me to tip no. 3; even though you might think museums are boring, go for it. You may actually change your mind.

A little history of Massa Marittima – in brief

Despite its name, Massa Marittimas is located more than twenty kilometers from the sea and is considered one of the medieval jewels of Tuscany. The city’s origins are shrouded in mystery; traces of human settlement from the Bronze Age have been found on the outskirts of the city, and already in the Etruscan period the area was known for mining and associated wealth.

The bishop fleeed from pirates and marshes. In the 9th century, the area became the center of the episcopal period as the bishop moved his main seat from the coastal town of Populonia. The bishop wanted to leave the marshy coast, which was constantly subject to continuous raids by Greek and Saracen pirates, and spend his last days in peace and quiet in Massa Marittima.

The city was already considered an independent city-state in the years 1225-1335 thanks to rich deposits of silver, copper and iron. But in the middle of the 18th century, the city was hit by both plague and malaria, which led to bad economic times and a sharp reduction in the population. Massa Marittima, like many mountain villages in Italy, became almost like a ghost town. Today, this wonderful mountain village appears to be full of life with good prospects for the future.

Art of Living – travel & adventure, wining & dining, literature & art – Trude Helén Hole

Text and photo; Trude Helén Hole

This article was written by Trude Helén Hole, who is an author, journalist, sommelier and business owner. Hole owns and runs the media agency New Spirit Communication with a focus on marketing travel and experiences, as well as digital storytelling and content production. Hole, who is also a speaker, collaborates with both Norwegian and international destinations and travel-related brands. You will find references here and more travel articles right here.

If you want to cooperate – contact me here.

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Yours sincerely Trude Helén Hole
Norwegian author, journalist, sommelier, lecturer & artist

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Trude Helén Hole

Live your life through joy, generosity and love – then the world becomes a better place to be for all of us. 

Shortly about me/this blog – I am an author, journalist, artist, sommelier and traveller that have experienced a lot of beautiful places all over our amazing world. I have written articles for several magazines for more than three decades, and have written over 30 books, including more than 20 on the subject of wine. You can read my travel tips here – and my books can be found on Amazon, among other places.

If you want to cooperate, please feel free to contact me at: truhole@hotmail.no

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